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LX100

Working through  this series of posts on the LX100 controls I now consider the actions required to complete the task of changing various modes starting with exposure mode.

The standard exposure modes on a Panasonic camera are [iA], P, A, S, M.

I usually regard changing exposure mode to be a Prepare Phase task. However it could also be considered a Capture Phase task as one may want to change exposure mode in the middle of capture proceedings. 

I do this routinely when using the Panasonic FZ1000 camera. I use A Mode at the wide end of the zoom range and S or M Modes at the long end to ensure adequate shutter speed.  

But I sometimes want to switch from P to S exposure mode with the LX100  and for the same reason, to ensure adequate shutter speed for the conditions.

This means changing exposure mode needs to be carried out quickly and efficiently with minimal disruption to the capture workflow.

FZ1000

This camera has a Mode Dial+Control Dial control system.

The exposure modes are on the Mode Dial. To change from any mode to any other mode I just turn the dial. I quickly learned the sequence in which the modes appear on the dial and can easily change modes while looking through the viewfinder.

There is a brief confirmation of the mode selected in the form of an icon at the top left of the live view screen (EVF or monitor).

Changing exposure mode always involves doing the same thing so my fingers soon learn what they need to do.

LX100

This camera has an Aperture Dial+Shutter Speed Dial system.

Changing exposure mode involves different actions depending on which mode is set initially and which is required.

So if we start with P Mode, switching to A Mode is easy, just turn the aperture ring.

To get from P Mode to S Mode we do a different thing which is turn the shutter speed dial.

To go from A Mode to S Mode requires moving both the shutter speed dial and the aperture ring. The aperture ring always moves right (at the top) but the shutter speed dial could go either way depending on the actual shutter speed required.

To go from P to M also requires moving both controls.

Access to [iA] requires yet another different thing namely a press (preferably a long press to prevent accidental activation) on the [iA] button which is squeezed into  a little space between the on/off switch, shutter button and exposure compensation dial. This disables the aperture dial and shutter speed dial but leaves the exposure compensation dial active.

Comment 

Several reviewers have presented the view that changing modes on the LX100 is really easy. Indeed changing back and forth from P to A is easy.

But other changes are more complex, some involving a double action which I find is not easily learned as the ring/dial turns go in different directions.

To change exposure mode on the LX100 I have to stop taking photos, put the camera down from my eye, think about which ring/dial has to turn which way, make the turns while viewing the ring and dial to make sure I get them right, then resume taking photos.

To this the reader might say  “So what ?   If the process makes you think about what you are doing surely that is  a good thing ?”

To which I would answer "perhaps" but there is a more efficient, streamlined way of  completing the same set of tasks so why not use it ?

Other Modes

There is not much difference between a [Mode Dial+Control Dial] system and an [Aperture Ring+Shutter Speed Dial] system with regard to changing other modes.  Both generally involve allocating some functions to buttons and some to a Quick Menu.

Larger cameras with more available real estate can find space for set and see modules for Drive Mode and Focus Mode, which is handy.








LX100

I have used  many cameras over the years. In recent times I have been thinking a lot about the user interface and trying to analyse why some design features work better than others, particularly after long association.

I decided last year  that I would never again buy any camera without a decent quality built in electronic viewfinder. Not one which has to be popped up and pulled out either.

I will revisit the arguments for viewfinder-vs-no viewfinder and optical viewfinder-vs-electronic viewfinder in another post.

Today I want to share some thoughts about the optimum location for a viewfinder.
I have used cameras with viewfinder at the top left position, with flat top  and  also at the inboard position on the lens axis, with hump top.

I have been moved to post this after realising that the more I use the Panasonic LX100 camera the less enthused I become about that camera’s top left EVF position. 

This is not about the EVF itself, which is quite decent, but about its location on the camera.

Advantages of  top left position 

* The overall height of the camera can be lower than is possible with the hump top style.  Even when the lens barrel diameter is as great as the height of the body a top left EVF can be fitted.

* Some right eye users might feel it better suits their viewing style. 

* Some left eye viewers might find it gets the user’s nose away from the controls on the right side of the monitor.

Disadvantages of top left position

* If a full eyecup is available and fitted it protrudes above and to the left side of the body. I had a Lumix GX7 with such an eyecup which was forever getting snagged as the camera went in and out of its carry bag.  The practical dimensions of the camera increased by the amount of the protrusion, so a larger than expected carry bag was required. In addition the likelihood of damaging or losing the eyecup increased. Both these issues are magnified by the location of the eyecup right at the bottom of the carry bag, (assuming handle side up insertion into the bag) which is usually narrower than the top.

* If a non protruding eyecup is fitted as on the LX100 or the GX7 without the accessory eyecup, I have found three issues:
1. Stray light often enters the eyepiece, interfering with image preview. Possibly because of this I find myself squinting more when I use a camera with top left viewfinder.
2. If I press my eye up to the eyecup to exclude stray light my eye ends up too close to the eyepiece for clear viewing.
3. I find it more difficult particularly in portrait orientation to bring my eye directly to the center of the eyepiece optical axis.

My workaround for all three  problems when using the LX100 is to form a makeshift eyecup with the index finger (landscape orientation) or  thumb (portrait orientation) of my left hand.  

Advantages of the over lens position

* A full eyecup can be fitted permanently. This greatly reduces the chance of stray light entering the viewfinder, and if the eyecup is well designed it automatically places the viewing eye at the optimum distance from the eyepiece and on the optical axis of the eyepiece, in landscape or portrait orientation.

* As the eyecup is not right on the corner of the camera, it is not so prone to snagging and damage as it goes into and comes out of the carry bag.

* I find I squint less when using a viewfinder on the lens axis and am also more easily able to keep the non viewing eye relaxed and open.

* With a long lens fitted I find the lens/camera combination better balanced with the viewfinder on axis with the lens.

* It is possible and usual to place the viewfinder, hotshoe and inbuilt flash in a fore and aft relationship on top of the camera, making space for more control modules than can be fitted with the top left viewfinder position.

Disadvantages of the over lens position

* Overall camera height is greater.

* Some left eye viewers might find their nose impinging on control modules on the right side of the camera back.

* If the user is to be able to look approximately straight ahead when previewing the scene, the viewfinder eyepiece needs to protrude back 15-20mm from the rear face of the monitor.

This requirement can also be seen as an advantage:

Cameras without this rear protrusion require the user to turn the head to one side in order to get the eye close enough to the eyepiece.

When I am using the Lumix FZ1000 which has a 20mm rear eyepiece projection,  I can look straight ahead in landscape or portrait orientation, preview the EVF image with my right eye and leave the non viewing (left) eye open to scan the wider scene if desired.

Conclusion

If a compact camera is to have a built in EVF and retain a low profile then the EVF must be located at or near the top left corner of the body.

But if the camera is allowed to gain a little height, I rate the optimum position for the EVF as being over the lens and on line with the lens axis.









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Các loại chảo ceramic
Hình thức thanh toán
Bảo Kim: Giadunghaanh@gmail.com-SĐT:01699660693-0437327672
Vietcombank :0011004044751 - Đặng Hoàng Giang- chi nhánh Ba Đình Hà Nội.
Paypal: earthtitan666@gmail.com
Webmoney ( WMZ): Z113578174141
Nhận hàng- chuyển tiền
Chuyển hàng miễn phí bán kính 5km
Trên 5km tính phí 1.000vnđ/km

Chảo tráng ceramic Nhật cỡ 20cm; 24cm ( sâu) ; 26cm
                                                                    Giá: 200.000 ; 262.000 ; 267.000
                                                                             20(cm)     24(cm)     26(cm)
Riêng cỡ chảo 24 là chảo sâu còn cỡ 20 và 26 là chảo nông ( Nhật logic T.T)
_______________________________________________________________________________

Chảo ceramic Tiệp đáy từ ( hàng xách tay )Cỡ 26cm và 28cm
                                                            Giá : 270.000; 295.000 Vnđ
                                                                     26(cm)     28(cm)
________________________________________________________________________________
Chảo chống dính tráng Ceramic-PAN(Tiệp) đáy thường Cỡ 26cm và 28cm

Giá :245.000;270.000Vnđ
                                                            26cm     28cm

Hình thức thanh toán
Bảo Kim: Giadunghaanh@gmail.com-SĐT:01699660693
Vietcombank :0011004044751 - Đặng Hoàng Giang- chi nhánh Ba Đình Hà Nội.
Paypal: earthtitan666@gmail.com
Webmoney ( WMZ): Z113578174141
Nhận hàng- chuyển tiền
Chuyển hàng miễn phí bán kính 5km
Trên 5km tính phí 1.000vnđ/km



Các loại chảo đáy từ
Hình thức thanh toán
Bảo Kim: Giadunghaanh@gmail.com-SĐT:01699660693-0437327672
Vietcombank :0011004044751 - Đặng Hoàng Giang- chi nhánh Ba Đình Hà Nội.
Paypal: earthtitan666@gmail.com
Webmoney ( WMZ): Z113578174141
Nhận hàng- chuyển tiền
Chuyển hàng miễn phí bán kính 5km
Trên 5km tính phí 1.000vnđ/km


Chảo vuông Nhật chống dính Vân đá và tráng ceramic (10cmx20cm)
Giá:
Chảo ceramic :217.500 vnđ
Chảo Vân đá : 200.000 vnđ










_______________________________________________________________________________

Chảo Nhật nông đáy từ SK100-20cm;22cm;24cm;26cm;28cm;30cm
Giá: 181.000/205.000/231.000/260.000/282.000/305.000(vnđ)                                                      
         20(cm)  22(cm)   24(cm)   26(cm)   28(cm)   30(cm)
________________________________________________________________________________
Chảo Nhật chống dính vân đá bếp từ 20cm;26cm
Giá:200.000;260.000(vnđ)
                                                          20(cm)     26(cm)

_____________________________________________________________________________
Chảo Supor ( Việt -Pháp) sâu chống dính đáy từ16cm; 24cm;28cm

Giá:105.000;285.000;340.000(vnđ)
                                                           16(cm)   24(cm)   28(cm)
_________________________________________________________________________________ 

Cháo báo nhiệt đáy từ Supor (Việt-Pháp) 22cm;24cm;26cm
Giá :200.000;215.000;235.000
                                               22(cm) 24(cm) 26(cm)
 ________________________________________________________________________________
Nồi bột 3 đáy bếp 18cm từ Fivestar (Đức) chỉ tồn 2 chiếc

Giá :220.000cm



                                    



















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