tháng 3 2016

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TZ80  This spider was about 2 meters from the camera. I was unable to get closer. But the TZ80 allows photos of small creatures to be taken from a distance using the long end of the zoom and AF Macro.


 Custom Menu
As usual with this series I will not elaborate on items which I think are self explanatory or are well described in the Owners Manual for Advanced Features.

Cust.Set Mem.     Pages 128-129 of the Operating Instructions for Advanced Features.
The TZ80 allows three groups of Custom Modes, accessible from the C position on the Mode Dial. Note the list on Page 128 of items which cannot be allocated to a Custom menu.
Custom Menus can be a handy way to group together settings for particular subject types, for instance low light/tripod, low light/hand held…etc.
You can still alter settings and use all the controls in a Custom setting but any changes made during a session will not be retained when you switch off or turn the Mode Dial to a different setting.

Silent Mode  Turns off beeps and invokes the E-Shutter. Camera operation is totally silent. Note however that if you switch off the beeps, operation with the mechanical shutter is so quiet as to be inaudible to anyone whose ear is not right next to the camera.

AF/AE Lock and  AF AE Lock Hold        This camera does not have an AF/AE Lock button. This function can be assigned to a Function button but I don’t quite understand why you would do that as the opportunity cost is losing that button to a higher priority function.

Shutter AF  This is the normal mode of operation which the great majority of cameras use. Half press on the shutter button activates and locks focus.  Recommended.

Half Press Release  For users in a hurry. The camera focusses, estimates exposure and fires the shutter on half press of the shutter button.  Sounds like an invitation to misfocussed shots to me.

Quick AF  The camera tries to focus continuously even without pressure on the shutter button. This is one way to drain the battery quickly.

Eye Sensor AF  Yet another option for the speedy set.

AF Assist Lamp  Panasonic has one of the best low light AF systems in the business, making the AF Assist lamp redundant. Even in very low light the camera switches to low light AF mode which is slower than normal but accurate and consistent.

Direct Focus Area    This was discussed at length in Part 1 of this 3 part setting up series.

Focus/Release Priority   I always set this to FOCUS as I see no point in taking an out of focus shot.

AF + MF   The TZ80 has some features usually seen only on much higher level cameras and sometimes not on them either. So you can autofocus set then touch up focus manually simply by turning the lens ring  while the shutter button is half pressed.

MF Assist  and MF Guide  should be ON.

MF Assist Display can be picture in picture or full. I recommend PIP.

Peaking  The TZ80 even has peaking. You don’t see that on a budget compact very often.  It is an aid to finding the optimal focus point with manual focus. I recommend setting the Detect Level to High and the Display Color to the top one on the list, cyan.  The peaking display lights up maximally at the point of best focus.

Histogram  I see Histogram as a legacy feature on cameras with Zebras so I switch Histogram off.

Guide Line  I find guide lines very useful, especially for keeping the camera horizontal. I use the third option down with both lines crossing in the center of the frame. If you switch Touch Screen functions off, the lines will stay where you put them.

Highlight  This refers to the highlight ‘blinkies’ seen on playback with overexposed highlights. I still find this useful even with Zebras in play during Capture.

Zebra Pattern   This is s feature you will not find on any DSLR with eye level viewing. It is an import to still cameras from video practice which allows you to evaluate highlight exposure pre-capture and if required apply exposure compensation. If the zebras are flashing, that part of the subject will be overexposed.
If Zebras are being used to prevent highlight clipping you can set one level for RAW on Zebra 1 and a lower level for JPG on Zebra 2.
You will need to run your own experiments to see what levels suit your type of photography. However a starting point might be 105% for RAW capture and 90% for JPG.

Monochrome Live View  The monochrome effect is applied to the monitor or EVF view only. The pictures come out colored as usual.

Expo. Meter  This puts a great big Aperture/Shutter Speed equivalence display all over the screen. I don’t know why Panasonic still have it in the list. It doesn’t seem to be working on my TZ80 which is a mercy.

Dial Guide You might want to have this on while becoming familiar with the camera. Then get rid of it to reduce the visual clutter.

LVF Disp. Style/Monitor Disp. Style   Most budget compacts do not allow these adjustments. The idea is to pick a style which you like then apply it to both the monitor and EVF for a seamless segue between the two.
I use and recommend ‘Viewfinder’ style with key camera data on a black strip beneath the image preview. This makes it easy to keep a running check on Aperture, Shutter Speed and ISO Sensitivity setting.

Rec Area   This sets the preview frame for stills (camera icon) or video (movie icon). Set it for stills (4:3) and it will change to video (16:9) when you press the red (video) button.

Auto Review  This is set ON by default. But if you want to make several single exposures in quick succession switch it off. There is however one reason you might want to set Auto Review to HOLD.  Panasonic cameras have an irritating behaviour. If you take a photo then press the Playback button to review the shot, the lens auto retracts after a period of time (generally 10-15 seconds) so then you have to set up the zoom and focus again for the next shot of the same subject. User forum member have been complaining about this for years but Panasonic appears to be deaf to their feedback or is unaware of it, I know not.
Anyway if you set Auto Review HOLD the dreaded lens retract does not happen and you can dismiss the review image with a half press of the shutter button.

Fn Button Set  has been discussed at length in Part 1.

Zoom Lever  You can set this to continuous or steps. Take your pick.

Zoom Resume  On/Off take your pick.

Ring/Dial Set  was discussed in Part 1.

Eye Sensor  For ease of operation set the Sensitivity to LOW  and the LVF/Monitor Switch to AUTO.

Touch Settings  were discussed in Part 1.

Menu Guide  You might want to leave this on while becoming familiar with the camera, then turn it off to declutter.

Well that’s it:  we are done with setting up the TZ80 for still photography.







TZ80 Plenty of detail, decent highlight and shadow detail. Luminance noise visible at base ISO.

Setup and Rec Menus

In this post  I will just run through the Setup and Rec Menus with suggestions about those items which I think deserve more explanation than can be found in the Operating Instructions for Advanced features. Some items like setting the clock and time zones need no input from me. Others like the Wi-Fi setup appear to be well documented in the Operating Instructions.

Setup Menu

Online Manual   I tried the URL listed but got nowhere. I find that Panasonic Europe is usually the best place to find the Operating Instructions. Keep clicking through from the ‘Support’ tab for the camera model. The file size is about 11.2 MB.

Live View Mode  The choice is 30 or 60 fps. Page 78 of the Instructions.  Panasonic says 60 fps prioritises display speed over picture quality and uses more power than 30 fps. I set 30 fps for general photography.  The 60 fps setting might have been something to include in a Custom Mode for sport/action. Unfortunately the camera will not allow any Setup Menu items to be included in Custom Modes.

Monitor Display   NOTE ! This item changes to Viewfinder when you look in the viewfinder.
You can adjust Brightness, Contrast, Saturation, Red Tint and Blue Tint in both the monitor and viewfinder.
Individuals will have their own preferences of course.
I leave all settings for the monitor at default.
For the viewfinder I have Brightness +6, Contrast 0, Saturation 0, Red Tint 0, Blue Tint -3.

Monitor Luminance You can experiment but I just leave this at the default setting which is [A].

Economy  Again you can experiment but the default settings seem to be appropriate most of the time.

Menu Resume  Set this ON for quick access to a frequently used Menu item.  The camera will remember which Menu item was last used and return to this when the Menu/Set button is pressed even after the camera has been switched off.

Exposure Comp Reset  This is very handy. When you set this ON any exposure compensation used during a photo session is cancelled when the camera is powered off or the Mode Dial is turned to a different position.  This prevents inadvertent carry over of an exposure compensation setting from one photo session to the next.

Self Timer Auto Off  This is similar. Set this ON so you don’t have to remember to cancel the self timer when you power the camera off.

Rec Menu
Photo Style  This is Panasonic’s term for user adjustments to JPG settings. The TZ70 mysteriously did not allow Photo Style settings which make a welcome re-appearance in the TZ80.
You can use the presets, such as Standard, Vivid, Natural….etc  by scrolling across or create a Custom Photo Style by scrolling down from any of the presets.
You can have several Custom Photo Styles if desired.
You can adjust Contrast, Sharpness, Noise Reduction and Saturation.
Individuals have their own ideas about this and some experiment is indicated. For instance if you regularly photograph in an environment with low subject brightness range you might want the Contrast set high. But in direct sun with a clear atmosphere you might want contrast low.
You can change any setting at any time.
I use Contrast +1, Sharpness +4, Noise reduction -5, Saturation 0.
It has seemed to me that all recent Panasonic cameras have been using excessive Noise Reduction at default, leading to soft, mushy looking JPGs. So I have all of them set to the minimum possible NR.

Filter Settings  Page 131 of the Instructions.
You can apply filter effects usually found in the Creative Control Mode in other Modes such as P,A,S etc.. Exactly why you might want to do this is a bit unclear to me…………

Aspect Ratio  This camera does not have a multi aspect ratio sensor so any aspect ratio other than 4:3 is achieved by a simple crop of the output picture.

Picture Size  I sometimes see on user forums a novice camera user complaining about the quality of his or her pictures only to discover the person has set some picture size other than the maximum available (L). Always set L.

Quality   This can usefully be assigned to a Function Button. You can have JPG in two levels, RAW and JPG+RAW. I see no point in ever setting the lesser of the two JPG levels.

Sensitivity (ISO) This is another one which can usefully be assigned to a Function Button.  I use Auto ISO most of the time for hand held general photography and 80 for best quality when the camera is on a tripod or otherwise securely supported.

White Balance  I have noticed over the years a steady improvement in Panasonic’s auto white balance to the point that I hardly ever use anything else. The camera actually enables extensive and sophisticated user adjustment of white balance setting with presets, color adjustment, setting specific adjustment and Kelvin settings.

AF (Autofocus) Mode    Instructions Pages 149-155.  You would normally access this via the Q Menu.
The options are 1 Area, Face-Eye Detection, Tracking, 49 Area.
I find [1 Area] the  most reliable and useful for most subjects.  
Face-Eye detect has its place for people pictures but sometimes fails to do its face-detecting thing.
49 Area is the one you get in [iA] Mode, with all those little green AF squares, over which you have no control.
Tracking tries to hold focus on a nominated subject element ( a dog, person’s face, whatever) as it moves laterally across the frame. It might also follow focus on the nominated thing as it moves towards or away from the camera. Or not, as can happen.

AFS/AFF/AFC  Page 148 of the Instructions.   This is also found in the Q Menu.
AFS is AF single. The camera finds and locks focus with a half press of the shutter button.
AFC is AF continuous. The camera continuously works the AF mechanism seeking best focus. This is best for moving subjects for which the DFD function enables predictive AF.  It is however  not optimal for still subjects on which the camera tends to hunt as it seeks best focus.
AFF is AF Flexible which is a kind of hybrid of  AFS and AFC but without the predictive function.
The description on Page 148 of the Instructions is quite good.

Metering Mode  Page 183 of the Instructions.
Options are Multiple, Centerweighted and Spot. You would want a very good reason to use anything other than Multiple.  Spot will almost certainly guarantee unsatisfactory exposures in most circumstances.

Burst Rate    Page 203 of the Instructions gives a good explanation with a table detailing the numerous options.  This is where you nominate the rate which will be set when Drive Mode is set to Burst. 
For sport/action work I use M, which gives AF, AE and live view on every frame at about 5fps.
To check a golf swing or similar you can select a higher frame rate with loss of some functionality.

4K Photo  There is extensive discussion about this in the Instructions, Pages 184-198.
This is allocated by default to the Fn1 button.

Auto Bracket  Page 206-207 of the Instructions. This is where you tell Drive Mode what do when Auto Bracket is set.
You can select from 9 options ranging from 3 shots at 1/3 stop intervals to 7 shots at 1 step intervals.
The camera will fire the selected number of shots while the shutter button is held down. It  needs to be on a tripod or other secure support so all the frames are in alignment.

Self Timer   Page 208 of the instructions.   This is where you tell Drive Mode what to do when Self Timer is set.

i Dynamic  Page 143 of the Instructions. This applies to JPG images. When [iDynamic] is ON the camera underexposes to prevent highlight blow out, then lifts the tone curve to correct mid tone brightness before outputting the JPG file to the memory card. It is useful when subject brightness range is high.
You have Auto, High, Standard, Low and Off.
I set Auto and leave it on permanently. The camera detects when subject brightness range is high and applies the correction automatically. It does help to prevent blown highlights to which the TZ80 is somewhat prone.

i Resolution   Page 142 of the Instructions.   This feature has been available on Panasonic cameras for several years but in the past I have never been able to convince myself that it was useful. However I ran some tests with JPGs on the  TZ80 and found that iResolution does work on this camera. When set to STANDARD  it cleans up the typical softness seen towards the corners at the wide end of the zoom.
I also tested performance in AFC at Burst M with JPG, RAW and JPG+RAW capture. The camera must have a really fast processor because even with the extra work required to implement iDynamic and IResolution it performed almost as well as with those features switched off.
With them both on the camera ran indefinitely at 5fps with JPG (max quality), ran for 16 frames at 5fps  before slowing with RAW capture and 14 frames at 4.5 fps before slowing with RAW+JPG quality.
That is a very good performance for a compact camera and considerably better than many entry level DSLRs and MILCs.
So my recommendation and practice is to leave i Dynamic set permanently to AUTO and i Resolution set permanently to STANDARD.

Post Focus  There is a full description of this in the Instructions,  Pages 210-215.
This is a wonderful new feature which I never knew I wanted and after reading about it I still don’t know that I want it. It looks like something Panasonic included because they can,  not because somebody asked for it.
Anyway it’s there and by default access to the feature is assigned to the Fn2 button. So if you want to use it you need either to gain access via the Rec Menu or use up a Fn button, the opportunity cost of which is you cannot use that button for anything else.
It seems a whole lot easier to me to just focus on the part of the subject which I want to be in focus and take the picture.

i Handheld Night Shot  Page 91 of the Instructions.  This is a fully automated feature which only works in [iA] or [iA+] and only if Quality has been set to JPG (not RAW or JPG+RAW) for which you need  to set one of the PASM Modes. It attempts to get you a picture at night when you have no tripod by making a series of exposures then combining them in camera.

i HDR  Page 92 of the Instructions. This is another fully automated feature which only works in [iA] or [iA+] modes with JPG capture. The camera detects a high subject brightness range, takes three frames in quick succession and combines them in camera for better highlight and shadow detail than would be possible with a single JPG photo. It works as advertised.

HDR    Page 143 of the Instructions  Not to be confused with  [i HDR], HDR is also a JPG only feature but works with the P,A,S, M Modes.  When ON the camera makes three exposures in quick succession and combines them to produce a single JPG file. It is not found in the Q Menu. You can set HDR to a Fn button but the opportunity cost of that is displacement of a higher value item.
The TZ80 has a simplified Off/On version of HDR. The TZ100 has the more fully specified version with submenus, usually found in Micro Four Thirds cameras.

Time Lapse Shot  A full description can be found in Pages 216-218 of the Instructions. For a consumer compact the TZ80 has some rather sophisticated functions of which this is one.

Stop Motion Animation   This is another sophisticated function well described at Pages 219-222 of  the Instructions.

Panorama Settings  Pages 110-111 of the Instructions.
The TZ80 has an auto panorama mode which works well and can if used with care and practice produce very impressive results. The camera will automatically set the lens to the wide end and E-Shutter is set.
First turn the Mode Dial to the Panorama icon.
Then enter the Rec Menu, when you will find the Panorama Settings tab active.
You get options for Direction and Picture Size.
You can make panoramas in landscape or portrait orientation sweeping horizontally or vertically, making a total of 8 options.
I recommend and use for horizontal panoramas (the most common kind) the bottom of the four Direction options shown in the Direction submenu. Hold the camera in portrait orientation and sweep from left to right.
I recommend setting Picture Size to STANDARD as WIDE is really a bit extreme for most purposes.
Substantial practice is needed to acquire an understanding of which subject types lend themselves well to the panorama treatment and to develop optimal technique. Most bad results are due to poor subject selection or poor technique.
Many natural subjects are managed well but diagonal architectural lines are not.
You can get some amusing effects by including moving subjects in a panorama sweep.

Shutter Type  The TZ80 uses a diaphragm type leaf shutter so the E-Shutter is not required unless shutter speeds faster than 1/2000 second are required. I have no idea when that might be.
There is no issue with shutter shock as far as I am aware.
Just set MSHTR and forget about it.

Flash Adjust  This is where you tell the camera what to do when Flash Mode (at the Right Cursor button or Q Menu) is set to Auto or Forced Flash On.  I use -1 stop so the flash operates as an adjunct to the natural light not a replacement for it.  This can be quite useful when using the camera indoors, permitting a natural appearance to the subject while  allowing a lower ISO setting than would be possible without flash.

Red Eye Removal  This fires the flash twice, the idea being that the first flash closes the pupil of the subject’s eyes, thus providing less opportunity for light to reflect back from the retina (red with blood vessels) when the main flash fires. Even if this feature is set OFF in the Rec Menu, it can still be selected from the Q Menu.

ISO Limit Set  This sets the upper limit which auto ISO can set. Your tolerance for luminance noise (grain) will determine your setting. With RAW capture and careful processing in Adobe Camera Raw I have found ISO 1600 can produce good results.

ISO Increments   Set this to 1 EV.  Aperture and Shutter Speed have 1/3 stop increments so there is no need for ISO to do likewise.

Extended ISO  On most Panasonic cameras this applies to the lower ISO limit which can be set.  But on the TZ80 it just allows a 6400 setting which is one stop higher than the standard upper limit of 3200. On this camera 6400 is ridiculously grainy and not recommended.

Diffraction Compensation  On cameras such as the TZ80 with a very small sensor, image quality due to diffraction at the iris diaphragm in the lens will start to become detectable in images at an aperture smaller than (a larger f number) about f4. This feature tries to correct for this presumably with extra sharpening. I have yet to test the feature.

i.Zoom and Digital Zoom  These are JPG only features which in effect take a crop of the middle part of the frame and resize it to give the appearance of an extra zoom capability. By all means play around with this for fun.  However I find the results quite unsatisfactory. The problem is that the lens is borderline for sharpness at the long end of the optical zoom and will not tolerate cropping and resizing.

Stabiliser  If you always use the camera hand held and never put it on a tripod or other support then you can leave the Stabiliser on all the time. But it needs to be switched off for tripod mounted (or equivalent) use and it is not to be found in the Q Menu. So I have it on Fn4.
You can read about Face Recog  on Page 226 of the Instructions and Profile Setup  on Page 229.
And that’s yer lot for Setup and Rec Menus.





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Nguồn: bit.ly/1XRXXtU

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Chảo chống dính là dụng cụ không thể thiếu trong gian bếp. Tuy nhiên, việc sử dụng chảo không đúng cách tiềm ẩn nhiều tác hại đến sức khỏe cho các thành viên trong gia đình. Cùng tham khảo biện pháp giúp bạn sử dụng chảo chống dính bền lâu dưới đây nhé!



Không dùng dụng cụ kim loại


Kim loại là kẻ thù số 1 của chảo chống dính, cho dù chảo làm bằng nhôm nguyên chất với độ dày 2 đến 3 mm và tráng 2, 3 lớp chống dính thì bề mặt vẫn có thể bị bong tróc nếu tiếp xúc với dụng cụ nấu ăn bằng kim loại.

Không dùng muỗng, nĩa, đũa bằng kim loại để đảo thức ăn trong chảo chống dính, không dùng dao, kéo cắt thức ăn trực tiếp trong chảo. Nên sử dụng các dụng cụ nấu ăn bằng gỗ, silicon, tre.

Sử dụng miếng bọt biển hoặc khăn mềm để vệ sinh chảo chống dính, không dùng miếng cọ nồi có chứa kim loại.

Bỏ ít dầu khi nấu nướng


Khi sử dụng chảo chống dính loại tốt, bạn có thể nướng bánh mì, chiên trứng trực tiếp trên chảo mà không cần dùng đến dầu, mỡ, hay bơ.

Chảo chống dính không yêu cầu nhiều dầu, mỡ khi chiên xào nên bạn có thể hạn chế bớt lượng chất béo để bảo vệ sức khỏe cho cả nhà.

Nấu ăn ở nhiệt độ thấp và trung bình


Tùy vào chất liệu lớp chống dính mà các dòng chảo khác nhau chịu được nhiệt độ khác nhau. Ở nhiệt độ quá cao, lớp chống dính có thể giải phóng ra chất độc hại.

Do đó, cần tránh dùng chảo chống dính để nướng, rang thức ăn cháy cạnh, không để lửa cháy vào bên trong lòng chảo, cũng không nên để chảo chưa có dầu mỡ hay thức ăn lên bếp nóng.

Rửa chảo đúng cách


Không rửa chảo chống dính ngay sau khi mới nấu ăn xong vì chảo còn nóng, gặp nước lạnh sẽ bị shock nhiệt, làm chảo biến dạng hay bong tróc lớp chống dính.

Nên ngâm chảo trước khi rửa để cặn bẩn, thức ăn thừa dễ bong ra. Chảo sạch hơn nếu rửa bằng nước ấm pha với xà phòng.

Cất chảo trên cao


Chảo chống dính nên được bảo quản treo trên cao. Không để nồi, chảo khác đè lên chảo để khỏi làm hư lớp chống dính hay khiến chảo bị móp méo.

Thay mới chảo khi cần


Chảo chống dính nên thay sau 1 - 2 năm, khi lớp chống dính có dấu hiệu bong tróc cũng là lúc nên thay chảo mới.

Sử dụng chảo chống dính đúng cách vừa kéo dài tuổi thọ của chảo vừa đảm bảo an toàn cho sức khỏe gia đình. Bạn còn mẹo dùng chảo chống dính nào khác, hướng dẫn cho mọi người nha!

Nguồn: Sưu tầm

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TZ80
  

Basic decisions- touch screen, focus area, function buttons, dials

This series of three posts concentrates on still photography. 

The TZ80 is a very capable video camera with many options including 4K. However my interest and experience is with stills. Please consult other sources for discussion about video capture.

Panasonic’s first model of the TZ (Travel Zoom) line was the TZ1 of  2006. This was well reviewed for its many desirable qualities but criticised for not allowing the user to directly control aperture and shutter speed.

Over the years, successive TZ models have gained increased levels of user control. So now with the  TZ80 (ZS60) of 2016  we have a compact camera with a level of  features, configurability and control similar to that which you might expect to find on an enthusiast level DSLR or MILC.

The TZ80 in [iA] Mode is still the snapshooters friend but it has much more to offer for the enthusiast/expert user who is prepared to utilise the camera’s full capability.

The Operating Instructions for Advanced Features (which by the way also cover the TZ100/101/110) available online,  describe in considerable detail the many settings you might make but have little to say about why you might select one in preference to others.

Snapshooters  and beginners to camera photography can leave all settings at factory default, set the Mode Dial to [iA], charge the battery, insert an SD memory card, set the time and date when prompted and start taking photos without further ado.

This little series of posts is aimed at users who want to take more control over camera operation.

Panasonic offers  [iA+] Mode on the TZ80.  Press the Menu/Set button with the Mode Dial at the [iA] position and see the [iA] icon at the top left of the monitor screen. Scroll right to select [iA+].
Clearly Panasonic is prompting you to consider [iA+] as the next step up from ordinary [iA] Mode. 
Indeed [iA+] gives you more features and capabilities than [iA].  By all means experiment with the options available in [iA+].

However I find this Mode more confusing than helpful and recommend moving right along to the P (Program) Mode setting on the Mode Dial, then to the A, S and M modes.  These provide much more user control of the image capture process.

To make best use of the options available some basic decisions must be made. Central to this process is selecting the method of moving the active AF area.  Just like more expensive cameras the TZ80 allows you to move the active AF area anywhere in the frame (and to change its size).

The AF area position can be moved using the touch screen, with several options available or the Cursor Buttons (4 way controller) again with several options available.

But wait: You also need to decide whether you are a left eye viewer or a right eye viewer.

Why ?  Because it is easier for right eye viewers to use the ‘Touch Pad AF’ function described below.

Why is that ?,   Because left eye viewers constantly find their nose touching the screen thereby causing unwanted actions.

Therefore it is more likely that touch screen operation will find favour with right eye viewers than left eye viewers.

Fear not lefties, you can use the ‘Direct Focus Area’ function of the Cursor Buttons as described below.  Of course right eye viewers can also use the ‘Direct Focus Area’ function.

Holding the camera in landscape orientation. This is a bit unconventional but effective. The left index finger forms an eyecup around the viewfinder, excluding stray light and setting the eye at the optimal distance from the eyepiece. The left hand has a secure grip on the camera allowing the right hand to release grip completely as required. The fourth finger of the left hand rests on and can operate the lens ring to adjust aperture or shutter speed. The fingers must not be allowed to rest on the inner barrel(s) of the lens. This could lead to optical decentering or possibly damage to the zoom mechanism.


Portrait orientation. This is not quite as secure as the hold in landscape orientation but is still adequately effective. The right thumb can still be used for Touch Pad AF or Direct Focus Area.


Holding the camera
Whether you decide to use ‘Touch Pad AF’ or “Direct Focus Area’ there is still the question of holding the camera securely.  This refers  particularly to the position of the left hand  and fingers which have to hold the camera while the AF area is being moved by either method as both require the right hand to release its grip on the camera. 

Touch screen functions   Screen 7/8 in the Custom Menu, Pages 61-64 of the Operating Instructions.
The TZ80 has touch screen functions,  previous TZ models did not. Some people are ardent supporters of touch screens on still cameras, others are less enthusiastic. 

It may be that Panasonic added touch to the TZ80 in order to support the various 4K photo capabilities.

Once you set Touch Screen ON,  the fields below become active. These are Touch Tab, Touch AF (with submenu options) and Touch Pad AF (also with submenu options).  

The problem for still photos is that it is difficult to utilise touch screen functions while looking through the viewfinder (EVF or in Pana-speak, LVF).

Touch Pad AF is a method for moving the active AF area with your right thumb on the monitor while looking through the viewfinder. This works as advertised by Panasonic. The sub menu options are [Exact] and [Offset]. I recommend [Offset] which allows you to move the AF area across to the left side of the frame without your thumb having to go past midway on the monitor. It also allows you to ‘nudge’ the AF area which is not possible when moving AF area while looking at the monitor.

I am finding this function works quite well with the TZ80. On larger cameras like the M43 models,  I find  Touch Pad AF not very useful because of the distance which the right thumb must move from its normal position in order to reach the middle of the monitor screen. In addition with  hump top models the location of the EVF causes the face to obstruct movement of the right thumb across the monitor screen.  The other problem is that you need to press the Disp button to recenter/resize the AF area and this is easier if the thumb is already on the Cursor Buttons. So on those cameras I use and recommend ‘Direct Focus Area’ using the cursor Buttons.

But the TZ80 is a much smaller camera, it is easily supported by the left hand, the EVF is at the far left side and the right thumb can easily reach across into the monitor screen area. So Touch Pad AF becomes a viable option on this camera.

Before leaving this subject I just mention an odd behaviour which I encountered while testing the various touch screen options. If you have your nose or a finger touching the screen then touch the screen with a second finger and move that second finger it has the effect of changing the size of the Active AF area without moving it.

The normal method of changing active AF area size is to rotate the rear dial when the AF Area Setting Screen is active  (AF area is yellow with four yellow arrows).  Press the Disp Button when the AF area square looks like this to return the square to center. Press Disp again to restore the AF square to default size.

Update July 2016:  I got irritated by the incessant propensity for the AF area to go walkabout when touch screen is active so I have switched it off and use Direct Focus Area as below.

Moving  active focus area with the Cursor Keys
If you are a left eye viewer or decide for your own reasons that you do not like Touch Pad AF then you can move the active AF Area with the Cursor Keys.

As usual with a Panasonic camera there are several ways you can approach this.

The two most useful are:
1.  Assign AF Mode (Autofocus Mode) to a Function Button.  When you press that button the AF Mode screen displays. Then press the Down cursor Button to enter the [AF Area] screen with the AF area displayed with a yellow bounding box and four yellow arrows.  Now the Cursor Buttons will move the AF Area up/down/left/right.  Rotate the rear dial to change AF Area size. Press the Disp button to center the AF Area. Press Disp again to revert the AF area to default size.  Half press the shutter button to re enter capture mode.
That method works but you have to press two different buttons to reach the point where you can move the active AF Area.

2. Direct Focus Area.  Find this at the bottom of Custom Menu screen 2/8 and Page 156-157  of the Operating Instructions.
When [Direct Focus Area] is ON you can directly move the active AF Area with the Cursor Keys without first having to press any other button.
This is a wonderful thing but the downside is you have to find alternative access points for the default functions of  the Cursor Buttons:

* Exposure Compensation and Flash Control can be found in the Q Menu.

* Drive Mode and Focus Mode do not have a place in the Q Menu (and there is no facility for a Custom Q Menu on the TZ80)  or in any of the Main Menus so if you want to access these, and you most definitely do, you must allocate them to a Function Button. 

So if you want to move the AF Area with the Cursor Keys this process leaves  only one Fn button with function as yet unallocated.

Does it need to be this complicated ?
NO !!!
In my view it is way past time that all manufacturers fitted their cameras with a JOG lever (a.k.a.Joystick) There is a perfect spot for one on the back of the TZ80, centered on the ‘F’ of the Fn4/LVF button.

The JOG lever does away with all the rigmarole currently required to setup a method for moving the active AF Area. The prime purpose of the JOG lever is to directly move AF Area around the frame. 
The technology is well established with JOG levers having been fitted to high end cameras for many years.

Q Menu
The TZ80 has a fixed Q Menu. Many other Panasonic cameras allow a Custom Q Menu which would have been handy for the TZ80 but sorry, it doesn’t have one. (but the TZ100 does, go figure) 

Fortunately most of the items which are provided are useful in the Prepare and Capture Phases of use.

Principles
Optimally you want to control primary and secondary focus and exposure parameters in Capture Phase of use with the shutter button and the front (lens ring) and rear (around the Cursor Buttons) dial, supplemented if required by Fn buttons.

Any spare Fn buttons and the Q Menu are ideal for making adjustments in the Prepare Phase of use.
Settings which do not require adjustment in Prepare or Capture Phases are best left in the Main Menu system. ‘Menu Resume’ allows the most often used items to be reached promptly.

Function button assignments
There are 49 possible functions which can be allocated to the Function Buttons. See the list on Pages 71-72 of the Operating Instructions and  Custom Menu,  screen 6/8  [Fn Button Set]  then click through to scroll through the 13 screens!  of options for each button.

The number which can be assigned depends on:

a) whether you have decided to use Touch Pad AF or Direct Focus Area to move the active AF Area.

b) Whether you decide to use the ‘soft’ Fn 5,6,7,8,9  buttons or not.  These appear as flyouts from the [Fn] soft button  on the right side of the monitor screen when Touch Tab is set to ON.

I suspect that people are going to love or hate these soft Fn buttons depending on their finger size and experience with texting on small screens. 

I can only suggest you give them a try. They are the only way to get additional Fn button items once functions have been allocated to the four hard Fn Buttons.  I personally found the touch screen Fn buttons frustratingly small, fiddly and a distraction from the process of making pictures but some users with small fingers will very likely love them.

Ring/Dial Set
Find this in the Custom Menu, screen 7/8 and Page 75 of the Operating Instructions. You will see that in typical Panasonic fashion there are 17 functions which can be assigned to each of the front (lens ring) and rear (Control) dials.

Decisions
You will see that the options available for the Fn Buttons and Ring/Dial functions are a dog’s breakfast of Setup, Prepare and Capture Phase items jumbled together in haphazard fashion.

Some of these items are duplicated in the Main Menus, some in the Q Menu, some nowhere else.

As Harry Belafonte once sang, “it’s as clear as mud, but it cover’ de ground”.

Each individual will have his or her own ideas about which functions they want to be quickly accessible so it is not useful for me to be prescriptive.

So I will indicate what selections I use and why. The reader will have different priorities and thus will reach different conclusions.  Whatever you decide is easily altered at any time.

I use Touch Pad AF to move the active AF Area.  

Update: See below. I have decided the camera works better for me with the touch functions switched off.

Ring/Dial Set: 
I leave both at Default.  This means both have the same function in P Mode (Program shift) A Mode (Change Aperture) and S Mode (Change Shutter Speed). In M Mode the Ring changes Aperture and the Rear Dial changes Shutter Speed.

It is tempting to allocate some other function to either the Ring or Dial. For instance you can allocate Exposure Compensation to the Rear Dial for quicker adjustment than is possible with the Up cursor button.  But then the dial will not change Shutter Speed in M Mode.

Update July 2016:   I now have Exposure Compensation allocated to the rear dial. In M Mode the shutter speed can be set either via the Q Menu or by turning the mode Dial to S and setting the desired shutter speed which will be retained when the dial is turned to M.

So what initially appears to be a cornucopia of options may well amount to something less for users who want to use M  Mode.

If you use M Mode infrequently then it could  be appropriate to allocate control of a primary or secondary exposure or focus parameter to one of the dials, leaving the other one to serve its principal function as described above.

Note: There is a workaround for M Mode if the rear dial is set to Exposure Compensation. Shutter Speed can be changed via the Q Menu.

Thus you might allocate  Sensitivity (ISO), Exposure Compensation or White Balance to one of the dials. Most of the other options are for Setup or Prepare Phase actions, more appropriate to a Fn Button or the Main Menu.

Function Buttons:  My selections are: With touch screen functions ON:

Fn1:  Quality (RAW/JPG)  Note that Quality is available in the Q Menu.  If you habitually use one quality setting and might only occasionally want to change it, then this Fn button could be used for something else.

Fn2: Sensitivity (ISO)  This is also available on the Q Menu for users who typically set Auto ISO and only occasionally want direct control of the ISO setting. If so, this button could be used for something else.

Fn3: Q Menu. I use this button for Q Menu because it is near the bottom of the camera in a lower priority position than Fn 1 and 2 which I use for more frequently accessed items. You must use one of the Fn Buttons for the Q Menu.

Fn4: Stabiliser (OIS) If you never use a tripod then you probably never need to turn the Stabiliser off and can leave it in the Rec Menu, thereby freeing up Fn4 for some other function.

Update  After working with the camera for a week I have decided for ergonomic reasons to switch off touch screen functions and use Direct Focus Area to move the AF area.

I will post separately about this but in practice I have found that camera operation is more streamlined without the touch screen functions.  When the Cursor Buttons are used to move the AF Area my thumb stays within a small area while changing AF area, AF area size and returning AF Area to default position and size via the Disp Button.

I have the lens ring set to default function which is Program Shift in P mode, Change Aperture in A Mode and Change Shutter Speed in S Mode.

I have allocated Exposure Compensation to the Rear Dial for quick operation. Unfortunately this means that the Rear Dial will not change Shutter Speed in M Mode. All is not lost however. Shutter Speed can be adjusted via the Q Menu. This is cumbersome and means in practice I will rarely if ever use M Mode.  

My Function Button allocations are: With touch screen functions OFF:

Fn1: Drive Mode (Not available on the Main or Q Menu)

Fn2: Focus Mode (Not available on the Main or Q Menu)

Fn3: Q Menu

Fn4: Stabiliser


In the next post I will go through the Setup and Rec Menus.






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