tháng 8 2016

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TZ80. The buildings in the foreground are 2 kilometers from the camera. Obviously you could make a better picture than this with a (much) larger (much) more expensive kit but I think that for a budget general purpose travel zoom compact the TZ80 does a pretty good job.

One of the most  frequently asked questions on user forums is  ‘which camera should I buy’. This usually produces a flurry of different suggestions presumably guided by the respondents’ personal experience and  preferences.  Maybe this helps the original poster, maybe not.

I have a long history with compact cameras. I usually own one and am always on the lookout for that as-yet-elusive ultimate compact which will provide picture quality and a user experience equal to that of a larger camera.

I think the future of cameras for amateur and enthusiast users lies with high performance fixed lens models. The best of these have become very good indeed, somewhat tending to confirm my prediction and making any kind of interchangeable lens camera increasingly un-necessary for my requirements.

And, Like most people, I really hate having to change lenses…………….

The four cameras referred to in this post


This post compares three compacts:

Sony RX100(4)

Panasonic TZ110 (a.k.a. ZS100, TZ100 and TX1)

Panasonic TZ80 (a.k.a. ZS60)

To keep things in perspective I added to the mix my favourite camera of the last 60 years, the Panasonic FZ1000.  This is much larger  so can’t be compared directly to the compacts but it does provide a benchmark for picture quality, features, specifications, performance and ergonomics against which the compacts can be evaluated.

What’s not here ?

* I will not buy anything without the ability to capture RAW files and an inbuilt EVF. I live in Sydney Australia where the sun shines brightly much of the time rendering the monitor useless as a device for framing and composition. 

I was reminded of this recently while doing tests for this post. I had the cameras on a tripod with the sun over my shoulder shining onto the monitor. I could not preview my subject on any of the monitor screens at all.

If I had been using a camera without an EVF I would have needed a dark cloth like the old days of large format photography or some device like a Clear Viewer in order to see the monitor at all.

The only Canon compact with an EVF is the G5X but this model has some well reported deficiencies such as sluggish performance with RAW capture and a not-so-wonderful lens. If Canon fixes these and other deficiencies,  a G5X Mk2 if such ever materialises, might find itself in contention for my camera drawer.

The situation at Nikon might have been described by Charles Dodgson’s Alice as ‘curiouser and curiouser’.

When I look at the Nikon Australia website I see that fixed lens cameras have been divided into a ‘Premium compact’ category and a ‘Digital compact’ category (are there any film compacts ???)

In the ‘premium’ category there is detailed description of three ‘DL’ series models which were announced in February but have failed to materialise. Neither of the two compacts in the DL series has a built in EVF anyway. The third model in this series is a hump top superzoom.

In the basic ‘digital compact’ category I see a miscellaneous collection of current, discontinued (or at least no longer available from vendors) and not-yet-materialised models (B700).

As far as I can tell none of the compacts has a built in EVF. The P7800 did but is no longer available.

The listed hump top superzooms do have an EVF but many of these models appear to be unavailable in shops.

Nikon’s product development and marketing departments appear to be completely out of touch with actual people who might want to buy a camera.

Listing cameras which are not available seems to me like  a great way to lose supporters and encourage people to look elsewhere.

Olympus recently ceased production of the Stylus 1 model.

Fujifilm appears to have abandoned compacts altogether in favour of  X series ILCs and Instax.

The Ricoh GR lacks a built in EVF.

Which leaves Sony and Panasonic as the only makers producing advanced compacts of interest to me.

The Sony HX90V missed inclusion in this comparison as it lacks RAW capture which is disappointing.   I have found that processed RAW files can deliver better results than JPGs from the Panasonic TZ80 which has a very similar (possibly the same) sensor and the same zoom range.

I recently tested the Sony RX100(4) and Panasonic LX100 side by side and found the RX100(4) to have slightly but consistently better picture quality at all focal lengths and apertures. You can read thiscomparison here.

Concept and design

Camera design is like a zero sum game at any given stage of evolution of the relevant technology.

Thus if the designer wants to include a larger sensor in a package retaining the same overall size, something has to give way. This will usually be the lens aperture and/or zoom range.

Each of the cameras in this trio is in the same size range with the RX100(4) being a bit smaller than the other two. However they each carry nicely in a Lowe Pro Portland 20 pouch with space for several memory cards and one or two spare batteries.

The Panasonics have an always-ready EVF and a fixed monitor. The Sony has a pop-up EVF and a swing up-down monitor.

The RX100(4) lens has a 2.9x zoom range with a  aperture range of f1.8-f2.8.

The TZ110 lens has a 10x zoom range but the aperture is considerably smaller at f2.8-f5.9.

The TZ80 has a 30x zoom range but a smaller sensor, with  an area about one quarter of that in the RX100(4) and TZ110.

So there is no free lunch. For a designer to add some capability, something else must be reduced.

Specifications and Features

Each of the three compacts featured in this post comes absolutely loaded with features and capabilities for still and video recording (including 4K) or both together.

Indeed the specifications and features of each of these cameras read more like those of  a current model prosumer DSLR or MILC than you might have expected to find in a compact just a few years ago.

Actually they are better than many prosumer DSLRs in some ways such as full time live view,  provision of  good quality auto panorama in camera and 4K video.

Picture quality

I base this evaluation on three information sources

* My own frequent use on a variety of subjects indoors and out.

* Lens test chart close to the camera (1-5 meters).

* A standard scene at a distance of 10-50 meters from the camera.

Outdoors in bright light:
In the (35mm equivalent) 24/25-70mm focal length range the FZ1000 and RX100(4) are clearly better than the other two, with nothing much between the FZ1000 and RX100(4) at around f4.

Either of these cameras can produce excellent results in this focal length range.

The TZ110 and TZ80 are not in the same class but are decently good cameras in their own right.  
They are able to make good prints capable of substantial enlargement up to 500x400mm with good sharpness over most of the frame.

In the focal length range 70-250mm the FZ1000 is clearly better than the two TZ compacts although at 250mm the TZ80 is in the middle of its focal length range and can produce quite pleasing printed output.

At 400mm the FZ1000 is clearly better than the TZ80 but the compact is by no means disgraced, showing it can deliver good results.

At 720mm the FZ1000 (cropped from 400mm to720mm field of view)  shows more imaging information and detail than the full frame of the TZ80 at 720mm.

So over the full range of focal lengths from 24/25mm to 720mm the FZ1000  has a clear advantage over any of the compacts.

Of the compacts the RX100(4) is clearly the best within its focal length range.
The TZ80 and TZ110 deliver closely similar levels of subject information and sharpness but the TZ110 has better highlight and shadow detail than the TZ80.

Low light capability

This is fairly straightforward with my rankings just as you would expect from the specifications.

The RX100(4) has the latest ‘One Inch’ sensor, an effective image stabiliser and the widest aperture (lowest f stop) lens so it wins the low light capability contest quite easily.

Next come the FZ1000, TZ110 and TZ80 in that order, as expected.

Neither the TZ110 or TZ80 is a camera I would select for regular indoor work but either can be pressed into indoor/low light service if one is prepared to explore the realm of slow shutter speeds to get ISO sensitivity settings down.

The TZ110 has a decently wide aperture of f2.8 at 25mm focal length, consistent with  indoor use.

The TZ80 can produce acceptable results indoors if one is prepared to shoot RAW and work the sliders in Adobe Camera Raw.

Performance

The FZ1000 is way ahead of the compacts particularly if one wants to have predictive AF on moving subjects.

But for mostly still subjects the compacts perform well. Each achieves focus quickly and each has a high rate of correctly-in-focus frames, indoors or outdoors.

There is little between the compacts with respect to performance.  Each is fast and responsive with RAW or JPG capture or both.

Ergonomics

Again the FZ1000 is way ahead of the compacts. As I was working with each camera in preparation for this post I was reminded just how much the FZ1000 is a photographer’s camera and the compacts are utilitarian devices which are much less efficient and less enjoyable to use.

Of the compacts the TZ80 provides the most user friendly holding, viewing and operating experience.
On my ergonomics scoring schedule we have

FZ1000     83
TZ80         65
TZ110       59
RX100(4)  52

In use the RX100(4) is not quite as bad as this score might indicate as once set up the menus do not need to be accessed very often.

In addition the RX100(4) has a more sophisticated auto ISO algorithm than the Panasonics which allows the user to leave the camera in P Mode quite often with good auto selection of aperture, shutter speed and ISO settings.

However the pop-up EVF on the RX100(4) is fiddly to operate and interferes with the position of the left hand and fingers.

From my own experience and reading it appears to me that the  RX100(4) is an example of the Sony approach to camera design and implementation. There is plenty of clever engineering but less than optimal ergonomics.

While I am complaining about the Sony EVF I would also just mention that the camera data (aperture, shutter speed, ISO, exposure compensation) and level gauge are much easier to see clearly in the Panasonic EVFs than the Sony one, particularly when ambient light is bright, causing stray light to find its way into the viewfinder.

So which is the best camera of this group ?

That’s easy: The FZ1000 has better specifications,  picture quality, performance and ergonomics than the compacts.

But the FZ1000 is larger than all three of the compacts together and this post is supposed to be about the compacts so which is the best of the three compacts ?

The answer to this question depends on the user’s priorities.

The RX100(4) is best if the  priorities are small size and low light capability with no need for a superzoom lens and no concerns about spending more on a compact than many combinations of entry level DSLR/MILC with basic kit lens. ( By the way I think I can get better pictures with an RX100(4) than with an entry level ILC and kit lens).

The TZ80 is best if a 30x zoom range is required at a low price point mainly for outdoors use.
I rate the TZ80 as likely the most robust of the compacts as neither the EVF or flash have to pop up for use.

The TZ80 has the highest ergonomic score and in my assessment is the most user friendly of the compacts.

The TZ110 offers a level of specifications between the RX100(4) and the TZ80.
The 10x zoom is  enough zoom for many users but not as much as the TZ80.
The lens aperture is wide enough for many occasions, mainly outdoors but not as wide as the RX100(4).

The sensor is the same size and has almost the same DXO Mark score as that in the RX100 (4).  

The price point is between the other two.

So you pays your money and makes your choice.

TZ80 and RX100(4) together in a Think Tank Mirrorless Mover 5 bag.


What about a kit with two compacts ?
I can easily fit both an RX100(4) and a TZ80 into a Think Tank Mirrorless Mover 5 bag with plenty of room in the front section for spare batteries and cards. The TTMM5 is smaller than the Lowe Pro Apex 110 which houses the FZ1000.

I can use the RX100(4) indoors in low light or outdoors when the zoom range is appropriate for my subject and switch to the TZ80 when I want a longer zoom range outdoors.

The last word (for now)

In their 2015 review of the RX100(4) Digital Photography Review made the following comments (edited)

“Something worth calling out is that the built-in stabilization and electronic/leaf shutters of these small compacts shouldn't be taken for granted, as they allow for slow shutter speeds that keep the ISO down and image quality high. It's this facet of the RX100 that allows it sometimes to even catch up to bigger sensor DSLR levels of image quality with respect to image noise in low light scenes, especially since the sensor is paired with a bright lens……..

The take-home here being I often find myself getting equally as good results from certain premium compacts as larger sensor DSLRs for still scenes in low light because of the additional exposure I can give these cameras due to their high efficiency sensors, bright built-in lenses, and IS. In other words: don't underestimate the image quality you can get out of these compacts, especially if you take the time to apply some best-practice techniques to shooting and exposure.”

These observations are in line with my own experience and identify one of the reasons I think that fixed zoom cameras will become preferred over ILCs (DSLR or MILC)  by enthusiast amateur and some professional photographers in the years to come.








Panasonic TZ80  Even a basic compact can make good pictures these days.


The camera industry is in the doldrums. 

As I write this in August 2016 camera production is in steep decline. The Japanese earthquake this year has caused a drought of (mainly Sony) sensors halting production of many models from several brands.  But even before this event camera sales had been in decline for several years.

Which leaves this blog short of  its usual material  for posts but creates an opportunity to look at the issue of menus.

One ergonomic issue which often draws criticism from reviewers and users alike is the chaotic state of some camera menus.

The most popular posts on this blog are the ‘setting up’ guides.

Many models have a collection of menu items which appear to have been thrown together in haphazard fashion to the perpetual confusion of users.  Evidence for this confusion is the number of ‘please help’ posts on user forums.

Many camera menus appear to be arranged in ‘camera centric’ and/or ‘maker centric’ fashion with sub menus (such as ‘custom’) unrelated to usage together with  random or idiosyncratic allocation of items.

Dis-similar items are lumped together.

Like items which should be together are scattered among submenus.

It’s a mess.

In this post I put forward some ideas for a ‘user centric’ arrangement of menu items.

As a proof of concept test I applied a system based on these ideas to the menu items of my favourite all purpose camera, the Panasonic FZ1000.  If I can work up the energy I will apply the same exercise to my Sony RX100 (4), a more daunting proposition as this camera’s menu system is less well organised.

Level 1
This is what you see when the button allocated to [Menu] is pressed.  The display and the options will depend on the current setting of the Mode Dial and of any other fixed function dial on the body such as the Drive Mode dial.

If the Mode Dial is set to fully automatic operation (iA on a Panasonic camera, Auto on a Sony) a basic list of options for each submenu will be available.

If the Mode Dial is on P, A, S or M the full list of submenus and options will be available.

If the Mode Dial is on [Panorama] only the options required for panorama are displayed.

If there is, say, a Drive Mode dial then if this is on the single shot setting all menu items are displayed. But if the dial is on one of the other positions such as burst, then pressing the Menu button only brings up options for Burst mode function.

This means the user does not have to trawl through the menus to find options for functions selectable via hard dials which I call ‘set-and-see’ dials.

If the Mode Dial is on P, A, S, or M and the Drive Mode Dial is on single shot the Level 1 screen will display the following:

Setup, Stills, Video, My Menu
These could be arranged along the top of the screen or down the left side. The Sony RX100(4) has main submenus along the top. Panasonic cameras have them down the left side.

Either arrangement works well enough in my experience.

However some cameras utilise both. For instance Canon Powershots have a Menu button which accesses the main menu system with submenus along the top and in addition have a Func/Set button in the center of the 4 way controller. This brings up an accessory menu system with submenus arrayed down the left side of the screen.  Canon DSLRs generally have one of the better menu systems but the Powershot system is un-necessarily convoluted because of the two different access points leading to two different layouts.

Everycamera should have a [My Menu] right at the top level, able to be populated by user selectable items.  This makes oft used items quickly accessible.

Every menu system should also have ‘menu resume’ function so the last used item is automatically displayed next time the menus are accessed.

Some cameras such as the RX100(4) lump video items in with stills items. Presumably this is to make some kind of statement about that camera being able to operate full time still and/or video function. But it makes setting up the camera more puzzling than it needs to be.

Level 2
Setup  leads directly to the items generally found in the Setup menu of a Panasonic camera and scattered about in various places in a Sony Camera.

The Stillsand Video  headings lead to submenus as described below.

My Menuleads directly to the user selected items.

Level 3

From Stills or Video  level 3 leads to:

Capture, View, Operate and Playback

View, Operate and Playback lead directly to items with options for selections.

Capture leads to Level 4

Level 4
Submenus in Capture are

Picture, Focus, Exposure and Drive
Each of these submenus leads to items with options for selections.

Discussion
I have tried to craft a menu system which is more relevant to the user than typical systems available in current cameras.

Thus ‘Camera’ as a menu item on some models has to go as it means nothing.
Rec.(ord) as a menu item covers too many parameters which get cluttered up in a list with too many items.
‘Custom’ is just a catch-all for lazy menu designers who couldn’t be bothered to arrange items more coherently.

‘Setup’ makes sense to me as a collection of items which set basic visual and operational features to personal preference.

Capture (Picture, Focus, Exposure, Drive) Viewing, Operating, Playback are categories which make sense to me as a camera user.

The list is eclectic and to some extent a mix of not-altogether-like-items, but I think it is more user oriented and function oriented and therefore more likely to be user-friendly than many of the menus seen on current cameras.

I should include in this discussion the problem of ‘grayed-out’ items.  An item will show as  grayed-out if a setting elsewhere in the menus is incompatible with the grayed out item and/or renders it inoperative.

For example if RAW or RAW+JPG is set as the Quality on a Panasonic camera then i-zoom, i-Dynamic and a range of other features are inoperative because they will not work with RAW capture. 

But the camera does not explain this or what you should do about it.

It would, I imagine, be easy and much appreciated if the firmware boffins included an on screen text message like ‘i-Zoom not compatible with RAW capture, set Quality to JPG’ or similar. 

Worked example: Panasonic FZ1000
Any current model Panasonic Lumix camera will have a similar menu system with individual variations.

Setup Menu
Basically the current Panasonic Setup menu is reasonably well thought out.
The only changes I would make are:
* Panasonic has managed to confuse generations of new users, and I suspect quite a few reviewers, by locating Monitor Display adjustment and EVF display adjustment on the same tab. Look in the viewfinder while adjusting menus and the display changes from ‘Monitor’ to ‘Viewfinder’.  All they need to do is put each of these two adjustments on a separate tab.
* Exposure Comp.Reset  should more logically be in the ‘Exposure’ submenu.
* Reset Wi-Fi can stay in the Setup menu but move up adjacent to the ‘Wi-Fi’ tab.

Rec. Menu
I would reallocate all the items in the Rec menu as below:
* Photo Style ( I would rename this [JPG Settings] to indicate what it really is namely JPG capture settings) > Picture.
* Aspect Ratio > Picture
* Picture Size > Picture
* Quality > Picture
* AFS/AFF > Focus
* Metering Mode > Exposure
* Burst Rate > Drive
* Auto Bracket > Exposure
* Self Timer > Drive
* Time Lapse > Drive
* Highlight/Shadow > Picture
* i-Dynamic > Picture
* i-Resolution > Picture
* i-Handheld Night Shot > Exposure
* i-HDR > Exposure
* HDR > Exposure
* Multi Exp > Exposure
* Panorama > Show Panorama options only when Mode Dial is set to the Panorama icon.
* Shutter Type > Operate
* Flash > Exposure
* Red Eye Removal > Exposure
* ISO Limit Set > Exposure
* ISO Increments > Exposure
* Extended ISO > Exposure
* Long Shutter NR > Picture
* i-Zoom > Operate
* Digital Zoom > Operate
* Stabiliser > Operate
* Color Space > Picture
* Face Recog. > Focus
* Profile Setup > Setup

Comment on Rec Menu reallocations
I hope you can see what I am trying to achieve here. I have tried to group like items which are meaningful to the user in terms of the tasks required to work a camera and the fundamentals of camera operation such as picture quality, exposure, focus, operation and so forth.

Custom Menu
* Cust. Set Mem. > Setup
* Silent Mode > Operate
* AF/AE Lock > Operate
* AF/AE Lock Hold > Operate
* Shutter AF > Focus
* Half Press Release > Focus
* Quick AF > Focus
* Eye Sensor AF > Focus
* Pinpoint AF Time > Focus
* AF Assist Lamp > Focus
* Direct Focus Area > Focus
* Focus/Release Priority > Focus
* AF + MF > Focus
* MF Assist > Focus
* MF Guide > Focus
* Peaking > Exposure
* Histogram > Exposure
* Guide Line > View
* Center Marker > View
* Highlight > Playback
* Zebras > Exposure
* Monochrome Live View > View
* Constant Preview > View
* Expo. Meter > View
*  Dial Guide > View
* LVF Disp. Style > View
* Mon. Disp. Style > View
* Mon. Info. Disp. > View
* Rec Area > View
* Remaining Disp > View
* Auto Review > Playback
* Fn Button Set > Setup
* Zoom Lever > Setup
* Manual Ring Zoom > Setup
* Zoom Resume > Setup
* Q Menu > Setup
* Video Button > Setup
* Eye Sensor > Setup
* Menu Guide > View

Comment on Custom Menu reallocations
You can see that the Firmware developers have already gone part way towards the model which I suggest with like items somewhat grouped together although not with much consistency.
Thus you can see a bunch of ‘Focus’ items together, another bunch of ‘View’ items together and at the end eight items which are obvious candidates for the Setup Menu as they determine how the camera will work.
I would contemplate a submenu in the setup menu for user interface module (UIM, buttons, dials, rings, levers ) function allocations as some modern cameras allow user function allocation for almost all UIMs and this is a critical aspect of setting up the camera to personal preferences.

Motion Picture Menu
Motion Picture menu items can usefully have the same sub menu categories as those for stills with the addition of  Sound. Thus:
* Photo Style > Picture
* 4K Photo > Drive
* Rec Format > Picture
* Rec Quality > Picture
* Exposure Mode > Exposure
* HS Video > Drive
* AFF/AFS > Focus
* Picture Mode > Picture
* Continuous AF > Focus
* Level Shot > Picture
* Metering Mode > Exposure
* Highlight/Shadow > Exposure
* i-Dynamic > Exposure
* i-Resolution > Picture
* Luminance level > Picture
* i-Zoom > Operate
* Digital Zoom > Operate
* Flicker Decrease > Picture
* Mic Level > Sound
* Special Mic > Sound
* Mic. Level Limiter > Sound
* Wind Cut > Sound
* Zoom Mic. > Sound

Playback Menu
All the items in the Playback menu appear appropriately located there.

Overall Summary
I have, over the years, read many complaints by reviewers and users about camera menus which are disorganised and unfriendly to users. Some of these complainants have offered limited suggestions for improvement.
This post goes further and presents a proposal for a fully realised, coherent,  user friendly camera menu system.









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Ngày nay sử dụng nồi áp suất điện đang được rất nhiều bà nội trợ sử dụng trong việc chế biến các món ăn yêu cầu đồ nhừ cao mà chế biến một cách nhanh chóng, với những chiếc nồi áp suất điện giá rẻ mà chúng tôi giới thiệu đến khách hàng chắc chắn sẽ là lựa chọn tuyệt vời mà các bạn không nên bỏ qua trong không gian bếp nhà mình nhé.



Nồi áp suất điện đã quen thuộc nhưng không phải ai cũng có thể biết cách sử dụng đúng cách, để giúp khách hàng hiểu rõ hơn về sản phẩm, hôm nay Winline.vn sẽ tư vấn giúp bạn cách sử dụng nồi áp suất  điện sao cho an toàn và bền nhất.

- Với nồi áp suất điện, không đặt nồi quá gần nguồn lửa hay nguồn nước, nhằm tránh tình trạng chập điện hay biến dạng các khớp nối.
- Khi nấu cần vặn nắp thật kỹ và kín theo đúng chiều. Lượng thực phẩm nấu chỉ nên chiếm khoảng 2/3 nồi trở lại. Với những thực phẩm có độ nở lớn, hay trào (như nấu cháo, hầm đậu), cần canh độ trào tối đa sao cho không chạm tới nắp để tránh bị bít van xả.
- Không nên để nồi rơi vào tình trạng cạn nước, cháy xém. Nhất thiết không được chiên, xào trong nồi áp suất điện
- Đọc kỹ hướng dẫn về cách đặt chế độ thời gian phù hợp với từng loại thực phẩm. Lưu ý, thời gian làm mềm thực phẩm bao gồm cả lúc nấu và thời gian chờ áp suất trong nồi giảm dần đến khi hết.
- Do vậy, tốt nhất nên để áp suất trong nồi giảm tự nhiên để bảo đảm thực phẩm mềm như ý muốn, vừa tránh được khả năng xảy ra tai nạn khi đột ngột mở nồi.
- Trong trường hợp cần mở nồi để bỏ thêm thực phẩm, luôn nhớ nhấn van xả cho đến khi hết hơi hoàn toàn.

=> Tham khảo thêm một số sản phẩm giá rẻ khác mà chúng tôi cung cấp: ấm đun siêu tốc, máy đánh trứng, ấm sắc thuốc bắc...

Với sự tiện lợi và hiệu quả sử dụng cao. Ấm đun nước siêu tốc đã dần trở thành một vật dụng không thể thiếu trong mỗi gia đình. Đặc biệt là khi mùa đông tới, nhu cầu được thưởng thức một cốc trà nóng, một tách cà phê thơm đậm, một ly sữa thơm ngon,... càng làm cho sản phẩm trở nên thiết yếu hơn bao giờ hết.



Mặc dù ấm siêu tốc trở nên quen thuộc với người tiêu dùng nhưng để lựa chọn được cho mình chiếc ấm ưng ý thì không phải ai cũng có thể lựa chọn được, hãy để winline Việt nam tư vấn giúp bạn lựa chọn được chiếc ấm mà mình ưng ý nhất nhé.

- Chọn sản phẩm của các nhà sản xuất có uy tín; sản phẩm có bảo hành, có xuất xứ, thông số kỹ thuật rõ ràng.

- Chọn sản phẩm có chất liệu nhựa cao cấp, thép không gỉ hay inox.

- Nên cắm ấm siêu tốc vào nguồn có cùng mức điện áp được ghi rõ trong bảng hướng dẫn.

- Chỉ sử dụng ấm siêu tốc trong nhà, không được sử dụng ấm ngoài trời.

- Chỉ sử dụng ấm siêu tốc để đun nước nóng. Tuyệt đối không được cho thức ăn hoặc gia vị vào ấm, không được đun sữa hoặc trữ sữa trong ấm siêu tốc.

- Không được sử dụng ấm khi nắp mở, vì chức năng tự động tắt sẽ không thể hoạt động.

- Không di chuyển ấm khi đang đun nước.

- Không được để nước dư trong ấm đun siêu tốc một thời gian dài, việc làm này sẽ dẫn đến nhanh hỏng các thiết bị của máy.

- Không đổ nước đến vạch cao nhất trên bình chỉ dẫn nếu không khi sôi, nước đầy sẽ bị trào ra ngoài. Cũng không đổ nước ở vạch thấp nhất, dưới 0,1 lít để tránh nước đóng cặn khi sôi.

Không chỉ mang đến cho các bạn những chiếc ấm đun nước siêu tốc chúng tôi còn mang đến cho các bạn nhiều sản phảm gia dụng khác như: nồi áp suất, ấm sắc thuộc, máy đánh trứng, bếp điện từ, bếp hồng ngoại cho bạn tham khảo thêm nhé.

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